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Planting Blackberries Trees

Planning

  • Choose virus-free plants.
  • Plan a training system to match the growth habit of your variety – either upright or trailing.
  • Plant in early spring in most areas; in mild-winter areas of the South and Pacific Coast, plant in fall or winter.

Preparation

  • Choose a well-drained site in full sun at least 300 feet from any wild blackberries.
  • Construct trellises for trailing varieties before planting.

Planting

  • Plant upright varieties at 3-foot intervals in rows 8 feet apart. Set trailing varieties 5 to 8 feet apart in rows 6 to 10 feet apart.
  • Set plants 1 inch deeper than they were grown in the nursery.

Care

  • Cultivate shallowly; the roots are near the surface.
  • Mulch with a thick layer of shredded bark, wood chips, leaves, or hay.
  • Plants usually don’t require pruning the first year. Prune out fruiting canes as soon as berries are harvested each summer, and select replacement canes for the following year.
  • Fertilize early each spring with 1/2 to 3/4 cup of a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 8-8-8 per plant. Sprinkle it in a band 12 to 24 inches from canes and hoe it lightly into the soil.
  • To prevent chilling injury in the winter, lay the canes of trailing types on the ground in winter and cover with a thick layer of mulch.

Harvesting

  • Berries should be harvested every 2 to 4 days when ripe.
  • Pick berries in the cool of early morning. Refrigerate berries immediately after harvesting.

Blackberries need full sun. They aren’t fussy about soils, although good drainage is important. If the soil has a good amount of humus, so much the better, but average fertility is all they need. Do not plant blackberries where any other brambles have been growing; diseases can build up over time and one of the easiest ways to avoid problems is to start fresh on a new site. Because wild blackberries and raspberries can harbor diseases and pests, try to keep your garden plants at least 300 feet from any wild relatives. Also avoid planting where any nightshade family members – tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers – grew in the last 2 years, as they can transmit verticillium wilt to blackberry plants.

Planting Particulars

Plants should be set out in early spring. If you get your plants from a mail-order company, order them at least a month or two before planting time and indicate the week you’d like the plants to arrive. If you can’t plant the day they arrive, keep plants, well wrapped, in a cool place. If they are loose and unpacked, set them temporarily in a shallow trench at the edge of the garden and fill it with soil so the roots don’t dry out. Nursery plants may have a 6- or 8-inch dormant cane extending from the root ball. You can use it as a handle in moving the plants and later as a row marker. Set the plants in the ground 1 inch deeper than they were grown in the nursery, then firm moist soil around the roots.

Plant upright varieties at least 3 feet apart in the row, with 8 feet between rows. For trailing types, allow 5 to 8 feet between plants and 6 to 10 feet between rows. The plants are relatively drought tolerant, but they’ll need a steady supply of water to get them established. In the second and subsequent years, plants need 1 to 2 inches of water per week during fruit development, especially if the weather turns dry and windy, a bit less once the crop is harvested. Drip irrigation is a good watering method for blackberries.

 

Planting Apricot Trees

Planning

  • Plant new trees in early spring, fall planting in mild areas can be successful if trees are dormant.
  • Buy dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old trees, if possible.
  • Although most varieties are self-fertile, fruit set is better when planted with one or two other varieties nearby. Trees will start bearing in the third or fourth season.
  • Expect 3 to 4 bushels of fruit from a standard-size tree, 1 to 2 from a dwarf variety.

Preparation

  • Choose a site in full sun. Northern growers should put trees on the north side of a building so trees warm up as late as possible in the spring. Apricot trees do well in a wide range of well-drained soils.

 Planting

  • Space standard-size trees about 25 feet apart; plant genetic dwarfs 8 to 12 feet apart.
  • When planting apricots, choose a site in full sun. In cold climates, set trees on the north side of a building, so that trees will warm up later in the spring and blossoms will be delayed until the danger of frost has passed. Apricots are not very particular about soil type as long as it is well drained.
  • Place your tree in the hole and spread the roots carefully. Apricot trees need to be watered slowly and deeply, out past the root zone. This means irrigating so the water penetrates about three feet deep and as wide as the tree’s canopy. Deep watering helps trees survive drought and assists with fruit sizing during late April and May. Mulch around the trees to retain moisture and keep grass down.

Care

  • Apply a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer each spring. Where apricots are easily grown, train to an open center. For colder areas use a modified central leader.
  • Prune bearing trees annually to encourage new fruiting spurs.
  • When fruits are 1 inch in diameter, thin to 3 to 4 fruits per cluster to increase the size of remaining apricots and prevent over bearing one year, little the next.
  • See our article Fruit Pests and Diseases for controls of common apricot pests such as codling moths, peach tree borers, plum curculios, and brown rot disease.

Harvesting

  • Harvesting peaks in July in mild areas and in August in colder ones. The picking season is short.
  • Pick when fruits are fully colored and skin gives slightly when pressed.

Planting Apple Trees

Planning

  • Select resistant varieties to minimize apple scab and other disease problems.
  • Apple trees are not self-fertile; plant at least one other variety that blooms at the same time. Flowering crab apples that bloom at the same time will also pollinate apples.
  • Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
  • Buy dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old trees, if possible. Dwarfs and semi-dwarfs will bear in 3 to 4 years, yielding 1 to 2 bushels per year. Standard-size trees will start to bear in 4 to 8 years, yielding 4 to 5 bushels of apples.

Preparation

  • Choose a site with full sun, moderate fertility, and good air circulation and water drainage.
  • Apples will tolerate a wide range of soil types.

Planting

  • When planting trees on dwarfing and semi-dwarfing rootstocks, be sure the graft union stays at least 1 inch above ground.
  • Space standard trees 30 to 35 feet apart, semi-dwarfs 20 to 25 feet apart, and dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
  • Surround each tree with a mouse guard before filling the hole completely.
  • Water, prune, and mulch young trees right after planting.

Care

  • Water young trees regularly, especially those on semi-dwarfing or dwarfing rootstocks, to ensure that the root system becomes well established.
  • Renew the mulch periodically, but pull it away from the tree in the fall so mice don’t nest over the winter and eat the bark.
  • Begin training trees to their permanent framework in the first season.
  • Prune bearing trees annually.
  • See our article Fruit Pests and Diseases for controls of common apple pests such as apple maggot, plum curculio, green fruitworm, codling moth, fire blight, and powdery mildew.
  • The harvest season ranges from midsummer to late fall, depending on the variety.
  • To avoid pulling out the stem when you harvest, cup the apple in your hand, tilt it upward, and twist to separate it from the spur at the point of attachment.

Choose a site with full sun, moderate fertility, and good air circulation and water drainage. Apple trees will tolerate a wide range of soil conditions. While you can improve your soil with fertilizer and mulch, other factors — full sun, good water drainage, the right varieties, and loving care — will go a long way toward overcoming less-than-perfect soil.

Planting Particulars

In the North, plant as early in the spring as possible. In the South where fall and winter weather is moist and mild, fall planting works well; it gives the roots a good headstart on spring.

Dig a hole a foot wider and a foot deeper than the root ball, then partially fill it with topsoil or compost. Space standard trees 30 to 35 feet apart, semidwarfs 20 to 25 feet apart, and dwarfs 15 to 20 feet apart. Pound in a stake on the downwind side for support. Support is not essential for semidwarfs, but it is still a good idea for the first few years.

Place your tree in the hole and spread the roots carefully. With dwarf or semi-dwarf trees that have only one graft, make sure that the graft union (a small swelling near the base of the trunk) remains at least 1 inch above ground, or the upper variety will take root and override the desired influence of the rootstock.

Deep planting of both rootstock-dwarfed and interstem-dwarfed trees results in better tree anchorage and fewer suckers growing up from the roots. However, planting trees much deeper than they grew in the nursery can increase problems with crown rot. With interstem varieties, the interstem section should be half above and half below the ground.

Before you fill the hole, place a mouse guard around the trunk to extend about 10 inches or so above the ground. Water your fledglings thoroughly. Then mulch with clean straw or some other weed-free organic material to keep the moist and to control weeds.

Hydroponic Strawberries Benefits

The word hydroponics originate from the Greek words hydro importance water and ponos significance work and is a technique for developing plants in water without soil. The art of hydroponic cultivating is not another creation, it is extremely old. Hydroponics really has its underlying foundations in old human advancements. There is even research to propose that the Hanging Gardens in antiquated Babylon utilized hydroponic innovation.

Quick forward to today where hydroponic innovation has progressed to the point of being completely mechanized. With the approach of PC computerization innovation, water pumps, and new developing mediums ordinary individuals can develop hydroponic vegetables in their terraces or business agriculturists can develop a great many plants with nearly similar strategies.

One product that has profited from hydroponic innovation is the strawberry and for a few reasons. This is uplifting news for each one of those individuals who get a kick out of the chance to eat strawberries. Utilizing a traditional soil construct technique to develop strawberries in light of an expansive scale powers ranchers to utilize an unsafe pesticide called Methyl Bromide. Since a hydroponic framework does not contain any dirt there are no dirt conceived illnesses or irritations which wipes out the need to sue harmful herbicides, pesticides, or bug sprays which harm the earth making this technique more eco benevolent. Thus agriculturists all through the world are moving into hydroponic cultivating bigly which is uplifting news for the earth.

Some other reason that more farmers than ever are growing hydroponic strawberries:

1. The hydroponic system can be set up to elevate the strawberry plants so that the fruit hangs down for easy picking. The strawberry being elevated eliminates the problem of the fruit rotting because it is sitting in the soil

2. The systems can also be designed vertically to increase the amount of strawberry plants for the space which is great for urban areas where space is very limited.

3. Since there is not a need to use harsh toxic chemicals in the production, the strawberries end up tasting better and are not harmful to the environment they were grown in or to the person that is eating the.

4. There is a higher yield when growing strawberries hydroponically even without the use of pesticides.

5. When grown in greenhouses or indoors using artificial light farmers are able to grow strawberries all year which allows them to make money even during the winter.

For all the reasons listed above more people, whether they are commercial or hobby farmers, are discovering the joys of hydroponic gardening.

Know Different Types Of Strawberry Plants

Strawberries are cherished by each and everybody, and are entirely sweet in taste. They are the best product of summer, and be developed in the terrace of your home and garden. On the off chance that you need a similar taste then you have to sow strawberry plants. These plants are entirely simple to develop, furthermore accessible in assortments. On the off chance that you are not having any learning then can counsel with specialists who all around experienced in the croping of strawberry plants. Your firm will look beguiling with gleaming orange red natural product with appealing flavor amid the entire season. In the event that you need to taste heavenly strawberries one year from now or need to develop then in your garden then profit the significant actualities about this fantastic assortments. For this you have to do the planting in the harvest time as quickly as time permits or can say amid spring. This will give your fitting plants some an opportunity to set up their foundations before the entry ofthe fruiting season. This will help in conveying most extreme reap conceivable.

There are different varieties of strawberry plants such as Strawberry Honeoye, Strawberry Mount Everest, Strawberry Florence, Strawberry Delia, strawberry mara de bois, and much more. All these wide varieties of strawberries are highly consumed in the world, and best known for their sweetness. Their planting need full sun, and partial shade. Some of the varieties of strawberry plants grow in the month of june and july whereas other grow in the months of July, August, September, October, and so on. The Strawberry Honeoye is a attractive early-season variety which produces evenly shaped, orange-red conical fruits in the month of june and july. The best aspect associated with honeoye is that used commercially alot due to its heavy cropping nature, as a result get plenty of fruits to consume. Not only this its shape matters alot as stands ideal for getting used in the decoration of desserts. They taste wonderful, and are most like by the consumers across the globe. If you want to start a business then must check out all the characteristics of wide varieties of these strawberry plants. Especially type of soil, fruiting time, harvesting time, season, months, and more. Online shops keep updating all the latest updates of strawberries time to time such as their production ratio, hybrids, and consumption level across the globe.

Grow and Care Strawberry Plants Tips

strawberry-plantSTRAWBERRIES, once available only in June, can now be found in stores almost all year. But these year-round berries are tasteless compared to the full, rich flavor of a homegrown berry. And with today’s everbearing and day-neutral strawberry varieties — in addition to the early-summer classics — home gardeners can enjoy picking strawberries almost all summer.

Old-fashioned, early-summer strawberries are large, sweet and abundant. They all ripen at once, so a good-size strawberry bed will yield enough fruit for plenty of fresh eating. Everbearing strawberries produce two smaller crops: one in June (earlier in the South) and the other in late summer. Day-neutral berries are not sensitive to the length of the day so they produce some berries all summer, with the possible exception of the hottest times. If you are planting a day-neutral variety, consider putting in twice as many plants to ensure that you can harvest more than a handful of berries at a time.

Strawberries should be planted 12-18″ apart, so the crown — the growth point where roots and shoots join — is level with the soil surface. The first year, you should pinch off any flowers so the plants will develop to their full potential. The second year you can start harvesting berries. The plants will send out “runners”, which are new plants that will root and start new plants. Remove most of those runners or your bed will become a jumble of crowded plants, none of them doing very well. In general, day-neutral plants send fewer runners and are easier to manage.

A typical method for developing strawberries is from transplants from known sorts with great development histories. The strawberry is not exclusively an organic product, the same number of trust it to be. Really, the berry is an individual from the rose family. A few producers allude to the strawberry plant as back to front organic product since its seeds develop on outside. Amid the Middle Ages strawberries were accepted to be a Spanish fly and were served in soups to love birds at breakfast.

In the South fruitful assortments incorporate Douglas, Dover and Toga. On the off chance that you are developing strawberries in Northern states, Delmarvel and Allstar are prescribed. They are both ailment safe and create expansive measured berries. With just a little cultivating range to work with, day impartial and continually bearing assortments are ideal.

Strawberry cultivation :

When planting in the Southern United States, the ideal time is September through November. Young Northern producers begin to arrive at garden centers during early fall months. Some varieties can tolerate a light frost and short freeze. Only during light frosts can you expect the flowers and fruit to escape damage.

Fertilizing Growing Strawberries :

Mix 2 and one half pounds of 6-6-6 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of garden space. However, to be accurate, always follow the advice on the product label. Too much fertilizer is never a good idea.

Garden pests and destructive disease :

There are garden pests that find growing strawberries irresistible. Thrips, snails, caterpillars and slugs are known to enjoy the plant. Plant disease you’ll likely encounter are fruit rot and leaf spot.

Many gardeners now prefer natural methods of getting rid of garden pests. A simple method is the use of insecticide soap. A search online will turn up other safe and natural products for use on your growing strawberries.

Harvesting your berries :

Strawberries are one of the first crops to be picked in the garden. Harvest the tasty fruit when it’s mostly red and still firm. If you have a large crop pick the ripened fruit daily. By doing so you’ll beat the birds and insects to the vulnerable fruit